Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
|Detail of Bodice|
|Detail of trim|
This dress is a beautiful example of 1950s construction and styling. The bodice is made of a layer of pink taffeta lining and a layer of net that move independently from one another. The taffeta layer has band of gathered nylon gauze set into the neckline and pressed into small knife pleats.
The independent nylon layer floats free from the taffeta under layer and mimics the sweetheart neckline. The top layer of nylon has a scrolling Rococo pattern created by gray dupioni edged by cording flat lined to another layer of nylon for strength.
Vertical and horizontal bust darts shape both pieces, each layer has a separate zipper set into the left side. The upper edge is finished with a piece of taffeta bias, and the dress has spaghetti straps made of nylon gauze. There is one line of boning in each side seams.
The 3 layer skirt is cut in a 3/4 circle. The under layer is made of the pink taffeta hemmed with a 3” wide piece of horsehair to give the skirt body. The two other layers are purple nylon gauze with a slight rolled hem. the middle layer is 1” longer than both the lining and the outer layer. The outer layer has scrolling dupioni pattern with cording that matches the bodice.
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
The bodice is built with a false jacket detail popular during this time period. The center front of the bodice has a gentle v-neck accented with a black band of trim. The striped fabric falls gracefully from the ribbon to a gathered detail at waistline, and the center front is accented by velvet covered buttons.
The bodice is built onto a 2” wide petersham ribbon. There is an attached belt of striped fabric with black velvet ribbon to finish off the top. The belt is missing a piece, which makes the photographs seem unfinished.
The closures are hidden under a placket on the front left side of the body that extends up to the shoulder. The bodice is lined with netting to give it more body without bulk.
The 3/4 length sleeves are set into the armscye with piping, are only slightly gathered at the cap, and have a detail of piping and buttons that run down the top of the sleeve to the hem. There are 3 pintucks on the inside of the arm to shape the sleeves. the cuff of the sleeve has a folded, gathered ruffle of striped fabric, a band of black velvet ribbon and a gathered band of scalloped edged needlepoint lace.
The bodice is made entirely of lace set into a striped pattern: wavy embroidered lines on net, a crocheted open pattern, and a needlepoint floral pattern. The shape of bodice is very basic with minimal shaping--no darts or princess seams--and minimal gathering in the center front. The bodice has a piece of lace that is set to give it the look of a faux blouse front. Below the false blouse front there are two pintucks that open 4” down. Additionally, there are two pintucks that extend from the shoulder seam to the bottom of the sleeve.
The bodice closes up the center back with white shell buttons and a hidden button placket. The bodice is lined on the inside with sheer, soft china silk that has significant damage.
The sleeve are 3/4 length and a mix of the wavy striped and the crocheted open pattern, with a band of the needlepoint floral lace at the bottom. Two rows of 1/2” net have been box pleated around the bottom of the sleeve.
There is a ruffled neck piece that appears to have been added on to the garment. it is made of machine lace with a zig-zagged edge and polka dots embroidered onto the net. it is set just below the crochet lace stand collar and extends to the back.